Ask a foodie: Mary Jane stomps into Cape with dinosaur-sized ribs

Mary Jane has expanded beyond its Perryville burger empire to create a smokehouse kingdom in Cape Girardeau. In a move that confused me at first, Mary Jane announced that the new restaurant would not be a copy of the restaurant in Perryville. Indeed, they would be more of a BBQ joint, with a completely different menu. I'm still going to have to drive to Perryville for my "The Barn" burger, but after visiting Mary Jane Bourbon + Smokehouse in Cape, I am no longer disappointed by this prospect. Plus, they are still serving a burger on the menu. Read on.

Breaking all of my personal protocols, I was talked into visiting Mary Jane in its opening week. I usually like to let a place get established before eating there, to wait for the crowds to die down and let the kitchen become comfortable. But I braved the crowd, found a parking spot, and walked in. I don't know if Mary Jane hires a designer or if they just have a talented person in charge of decor, but this place is slick. They took an old downtown building that previously housed a dry cleaners and turned it into a chic, wood-grained and modern-metaled space with the feel of a lounge. The little touches were thought out and fun to look at, like a soda dispenser built into the frame of an old Pac Man arcade game, or a long bench table built into the back of an entire pickup truck bed. The bar area is stacked high with expensive bourbons, and the whole place is lit with warm old-fashioned bulbs. If you have to wait for a seat, there is a standing height table strewn with menus where you can enjoy your drink while you plan your food attack. Or you can sit at the bar, if you can find a space. It was packed while I was there.

Mary Jane has made a smart move by creating what they called a "soft launch" menu. This is a slimmed down menu, keeping the different ingredients manageable while they perfect the machinery of a new restaurant. The waiter (shout out to the ex-rocker from Arizona, you did an awesome job) told us that after the launch period there would be a larger menu available. There is one burger on the current menu for you burger purists out there, the MJB + S Burger, with cheese, onions, bacon, tomato and greens. I have no doubt it is as delicious and juicy as a Perryville Mary Jane Burger, but that is not what I ordered.

I ordered the Brontosaurus Smoked Beef Rib. It came with Mary Jane's awesome onion rings and house pickles. Though it pained me to do it, for health reasons I forwent the onion rings for the broccoli salad (but if you can have them and enjoy them, for the love of all that's good, get the onion rings). The Brontosaurus Rib honest to goodness lived up to its name. Served on a stainless steel cafeteria tray, because that's the only plate big enough to hold it, was a single beef rib as long as my forearm. The meat was smoked and pink, showing that smoke ring that all smokers strive for. When I went to cut into the rib meat with a knife, I had to laugh and show my husband. No knife was needed. In fact, I could spin the bone freely because the meat was, quite literally, falling off of the bone.

I am more familiar with pork ribs, and I was not prepared for the fat in this rib. Don't stop reading! This is a good thing. The meat on the rib was almost layered up with delicate, thin layers of fat, and this fat was the consistency of a thick sauce. It was all the seasoning that the meat required. Biting into a forkful was like an explosion of savory delight, juicy and smooth and so so tender. I am not exaggerating. This rib was flavorful, a simple cut of meat cooked well, bathed in its own juices until the beef flavor was amplified until the very heavens rang with...OK, now I'm probably exaggerating a little bit there. But wow. Unbelievably good.

The bar area at Mary Jane Bourbon + Smokehouse is packed and interesting to look at.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair

Everyone I went with enjoyed their food and the atmosphere. It is completely different from the Mary Jane in Perryville, so don't compare them. The only thing that is comparable is their quality.