Subscriber exclusive — 36 Restaurant & Bar is a glittering gem in downtown Cape's crown

Downtown Cape Girardeau has become the go-to place for fine dining for those of us south of St. Louis. I have watched with pleasure as new restaurants have opened, filling Cape's destination crown with glittering culinary temptations. 36 Restaurant & Bar is a very large gem in that crown.

36 is on North Main Street in a well placed historic building. There is something about being that close to the Mighty Mississippi that just lends a natural gravitas to the businesses there. Perhaps it is the history around every corner, or maybe it is the lingering footprints of the generations of people who have trodden there, but I've always loved the downtown. Whatever the reason, 36 takes advantage of this weighty history and uses it to dress up their cozy, dignified dining room. Don't be intimidated by the white linen table cloths or the velvety red fresh roses on each table. You, my friend, deserve some pampering once in a while, and 36 is the place to get it.

I decided to go here with my sister for a treat. We started with the Fried Cauliflower "Rarebit," mostly because I try anything cauliflower in an effort to save carbs anywhere I can. I'm not ashamed to admit that I needed to look up what rarebit is, because I had no idea. True rarebit is a Welsh invention, very simple and consisting of toasted bread slathered with a cheese sauce. Sometimes, it is topped with mustard and/or spices, but that is it. It's been around since at least the 1500s, so the dish has some staying power. 36's version of rarebit takes the original and makes it transcendent. On the bottom of the bowl is spread a layer of aged cheddar cheese mixed with brown ale and just a touch of Dijon. On top of this wonderful cheese is placed the flash fried cauliflower. The cauliflower steals the show. Crispy and brown on the outside, with the savory cheese you practically forget you are eating humble cauliflower. To make things even better, crispy prosciutto, so thin you can almost see through it, is scattered throughout the bowl. To put it into perspective, this dish filled that void in me that yearns for loaded cheese fries: crispy veggies, a crunch of smoky pork like bacon but more delicate, and a flavorful rich cheese. If you go and get nothing else, please do try the rarebit.

For the main course, I ordered the fish of the day. That day it was swordfish, a dense, flaky fish, succulent and juicy. It was placed on a fall squash puree and dressed with a roasted shiitake mushroom, cauliflower, and sugar snap pea saute. Perched on the top was a watercress and radish salad, a fresh pop of color and texture to the meal, and boy, did it make the dish look pretty. My favorite way to eat this, and I'm sure this was intended, was to try to get a little of everything on my fork. All of these flavors together, from the flaky fish to the crunchy radishes, the savory mushrooms and the sweet squash, were like fireworks in my mouth. The puree was my favorite here, with a subtle sweetness that made the dish for me.

As good as my dish was, my sister's was just as good, or maybe even a tad better. She ordered the 8-ounce beef tenderloin filet, and it was everything a steak should be and more. Cooked exactly the way she ordered it, the steak was tender and thick, no knife needed. The flavor they packed into this filet was so intense, I felt like I'd never tasted beef before. They served it with garlic smashed potatoes, grilled broccolini and beef and mushroom demi. This demi was, I am assuming, a demi-glace, which is a rich brown stock reduced until the sauce is thick and gravy-like. This particular demi tasted as if someone had taken the best parts of beef and mushrooms and concentrated it into a one-two punch to your savory taste buds. It was delicious, as was the broccolini. I usually hate broccolini because it tends to be bitter if prepared incorrectly. This was not even close to bitter and was the perfect accompaniment to the soft potatoes and tender meat. Once again, this dish was lovely to look at, which undoubtedly made it taste even better. The attention to detail was a joy to experience, and I thank the chef wholeheartedly.

36 Restaurant & Bar's 8-ounce tenderloin filet, cooked to perfection and topped with a complex and meaty beef and mushroom demi.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair