Ask a foodie: If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is, but not this time

One of Oxford Languages definitions for true is “rightly or strictly so called; genuine".

Several times, people have recommended TrueQue. I am so extremely sorry, and more than a little mortified, that it took me so long to visit TrueQue.

So, was the barbecue here “rightly or strictly so called; genuine?” It was finally time to find out.

Last week, it was a drizzly, chill day, gray and ugly, and TrueQue directions were programmed into my phone. I saw that the address was 402 Good Hope in Cape Girardeau, and turned down that street, looking for the place. There were buildings on each side, and then suddenly, open grassy fields on both sides of the road. And the only thing sitting in this open area was a big barbecue smoker, a little steel garage, and a little building that was not much bigger than a prefab shed. There were concrete tables and benches outside, and I figured I was in the right place. Like always, I arrived at a weird time of day to eat, about 2 p.m., and there was plenty of parking room on the street.

I walked up to the building, stood on the front porch and perused the menu, ordered from the gentleman inside, waited about four minutes, and was back in my car before I had time to get really cold.

I drove home, about 18 minutes, and unpacked my food. Thanks to being wrapped in aluminum foil, the meats from my order were still piping hot.

Two different folks had told me that the pork steaks were the best they’d ever had, so I had ordered a pork steak meal, which came with two sides. I couldn’t even get the pork steak out without it falling apart on me, and I was trying to be careful so I could take a picture of it before consuming.

And the consuming …

Look ya’ll, I’ve tried a lot of barbecue, and I like most of it. It’s a wonderful way to cook meat, in my humble opinion. And I love barbecue sauce, all sweet and smoky and thick. Honestly, the sauce is probably my favorite part of barbecue. But, and let me be perfectly clear here: this pork steak absolutely, positively and in a 100% way, does not need barbecue sauce. The seasoning and smoking is so rich, so embedded in every fiber of the pork and all the way through, that the flavor is there, without help from brown sugar, ketchup and vinegar. The meat did the heavy lifting all on its own, and it was so fork tender that it was nearly impossible to spear on the fork, but instead it had to be delicately scooped up. Also, I hate fat on meat. The texture grosses me out, and I dislike the chewiness. But the fine line of fat on that pork steak was like butter, but better. I put a little bit of it with every bite until it was gone and I was a little sad that I had run out. Amazing. Delectable.

This, this is absolutely, no nonsense, the best barbecue I have ever had. Better than the famous dry rubs in Memphis. Better than the saucy burnt ends from Kansas City. Better than mesquite brisket from Texas.

So, like an animal, I tore off a rib from the rack of ribs I had also ordered, because by this point, I just knew that it would come right off in my hand, and it did. Just as good, as tender, as full of flavor.

So sides for a barbecue plate are usually a throwaway for me, something to break up the smoky meat flavor for a bite or two, but TrueQue goes hard on the sides, too. I ordered baked beans, which were full of meat, and delicious. And when I say delicious, let me tell you that my mom makes the best baked beans in the world, and it is the standard that I judge all others by. Nothing has ever held up to mom’s baked beans, but True Que is at least as good, although I wouldn’t dare say that they are better. Don’t sleep on the mac and cheese, either. If you don’t like barbecue, give the wings or fish a try.

TrueQue is open Tuesday through Saturday. Check their Facebook page daily for hours and an exact menu for that day. Genuine barbecue, indeed.

Rebecca LaClair travels to a new place every week to try food from a trendy restaurant or one she hasn’t tried.