NewsDecember 4, 1996
Smallish bottles of seemingly foreign materials used for goodness knows what may often be relegated to that kitchen fixture known as the spice rack. But cooks in the know realize spices and herbs make flavorful and healthy contributions to the simplest of menus...

Smallish bottles of seemingly foreign materials used for goodness knows what may often be relegated to that kitchen fixture known as the spice rack.

But cooks in the know realize spices and herbs make flavorful and healthy contributions to the simplest of menus.

If the interest shown at talks Cape Girardeans Don and Carol Koehler conduct are any indication, more and more of those spice and herb containers may be getting a good shake.

On the subject of herbs and spices, "there are people who are really excited and into it," Don Koehler said. Count in the Koehlers.

With herbs as their chief gardening interest, the Koehlers are certified as master gardeners through the University of Missouri Extension Master Gardener Program. As part of their affiliation with the program, the couple spread the news about growing and using herbs and spices.

Since early autumn, they've also been serving up their recipes at a tea room called Sylvia Harlow's in the lower level of the former Campster School on Bloomfield Road.

At the tea room, as well as in the Koehlers' kitchen, "the emphasis is on heart-healthy cooking," Don Koehler said. "We're using herbs and spices and very, very, very little salt." That does not translate to a sacrifice of taste, but rather, just the opposite.

The range of flavor that can be achieved by using herbs and spices is unlimited, explained Tim Philipps, executive chef at Lacey's on the Hill on the mezzanine at Southeast Missouri Hospital. "They allow you to enhance those flavors without adding fat, cholesterol or sodium."

Plus, Koehler noted, "Most herbs and spices are very high in vitamins by themselves, so, you're actually enhancing the vitamin count of your dishes when adding herbs and spices to them."

Some kinds of spices and herbs are readily familiar, but other names may prompt a questioning look on many a cook's face.

First, Koehler advises, there is no need to get confused about just what is a spice and what is an herb.

"When you talk herbs and spices, you're talking the same thing, basically," he explained.

The definitions are rather loose and there is some overlapping of terms, Philipps agreed.

In general, Koehler said, "an herb is the softer part of the plant, the leaves, the blossoms, in some cases, the stem -- if it is a non-woody plant.

Spice typically hails from a woody plant or the hard portion of a plant, he explained. "It is made from root, bark or, in some cases, a nut or a seed."

While herbs can be grown easily and in small spaces, many spices -- such as cinnamon, nutmeg and mace -- hail from hot climates. Koehler said, "The true spices, most of them have to be imported."

People looking to introduce or increase the use of spices and herbs in their cooking can do so easily and economically, said Nick Accardo, owner of the Whistle Stop Cafe in Jackson.

"Simplest is always the easiest and best, and most consistent, too," he advised. Seasoning packets and stir-fry mixes are quick and versatile ways to boost the flavor of many dishes.

"Experiment a little bit," he advised. "We, through trial and error, have found in our restaurant what people like," and the same can apply in the home.

To find out if the taste of a specific herb is appealing, Koehler advised: "Take an herb, mix it with a little butter or cream cheese, put it on a cracker and try it." If the taste is unappealing, "don't give up, try another herb or try it in combination with another herb."

The Koehlers cultivate, dry and freeze herbs. After introducing spices and herbs into their cooking habits, it wasn't long before the couple decided to grow their own herbs. "We started a small herb garden, and it's grown from there," Don Koehler said.

While spices and herbs and their use may seem a bit new to some, the basic products themselves are anything but untested.

"Countries have been discovered because of herbs and spices," Koehler said with a chuckle. "Columbus was looking for a shorter trade route to the East so he could bring spices back, and he found us."

There just might be a rediscovery under way.

Philipps offered these tips:

-- In choosing herbs, fresh is always the best choice.

-- To store fresh herbs for a short period, wrap loosely in damp cloth or paper, place in plastic bag, seal loosely. Store at around 35 to 45 degrees.

-- Add fresh herbs near the end of food preparation; add dried herbs early in preparation.

-- Don't throw away excess herbs, use them for flavoring oils, vinegars or butters.

-- Spice rubs add great taste to meats.

Here are some other spicy tips from the American Spice Trade Association.

-- Keep spices in tightly covered containers away from intense heat and strong, direct light. Brightly colored spices, including paprika, parsley flakes, freeze-dried chives and many herbs are particularly light-sensitive.

-- Unopened containers of spices have a long storage life -- up to two or three years. Whole spices have the longest life; ground spices and herbs are more fragile. Opened containers usually retain their value at least one year.

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Recipes

Herbal Cheese Blend

(From the kitchen of Don and Carol Koehler)

Cheese blend can be used as a spread, thinned and used as a dip, thinned again and used as a dressing.

Ingredients:

8 oz. cream cheese,

2 cloves of garlic (to taste) minced

2 teaspoons parsley

1 teaspoon chives

1 teaspoon dill weed

1 teaspoon basil

caraway seeds

With cream cheese at room temperature, blend ingredients together, refrigerate overnight. This base may be thinned with milk, sour cream or mayonnaise.

Quick Cranberry Relish

(From the Koehler kitchen)

Ingredients:

1 can whole berry cranberry sauce

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup chopped walnuts

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon cloves

Stir ingredients, refrigerate overnight.

Spiced Fall Fruit Crisp

From the American Spice Trade Association

Ingredients:

1 cup rolled quick or regular cooking oats

1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, divided

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg, divided

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

8 cups peeled, cored and thinly sliced yellow delicious apples or firm ripe pears (about 5 large)

1/2 cup golden raisins

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. To prepare topping: In a small bowl combine oats, brown sugar and 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon and 1/4 teaspoon of the nutmeg. Add butter; with two knives cut into small pieces so that mixture resembles coarse crumbs; set aside.

In a large bowl toss apples and raisins with remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg. Mound apples in a 6 cup casserole or baking dish. Sprinkle topping over apples. Bake until topping is golden and fruit is tender, 35-45 minutes.

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