Hole-in-the-wall or little slice of heaven?

Although the Pilot House could be described as having a slightly "rustic" appearance it has been an area favorite for 45 years and is still going strong.

"On a weekend night or even sometimes during the week there is standing room only," said Mike Wands, who has been general manager of the Pilot House for eight years.

The Pilot House, 3532 Perryville Road, has been filled with customers since 1962 when retired river boat captain Ralph Brockmire and his wife Luella decided to open a restaurant reminiscent of his longtime career. The motif was completed with a wheel that still rests over the bar from the pilot house of the Spraque, a retired steam-driven tow boat.

According to Wands, the building itself stands basically the same, but the food and drink menu has changed greatly over the years. "Basically it was a barbecue and canned beer joint for years, but it's not just barbecue any more. Now we have a full bar and a menu of some of the best food in the area. We were voted in a poll in the Missourian as the area's second pick for catering services, so you could say that things have really changed over the years," Wands said.

Wands said the Pilot House staff really focuses on the food.

Rebecca Winkler took payment from a customer Friday at the counter at the Pilot House. (AARON EISENHAUER ~ aeisenhauer@semissourian.com)

"Our big thing is shock value, because I like to see someone look at their plate and see their eyes pop out of their head when they see how huge our portions are. We can always tell when someone hasn't been here before because they look around like 'Is this it?', but when their food comes out they are always pleased," Wands said.

Wands said the menu is carefully prepared with the freshest possible ingredients to ensure quality. He says the pork shoulders and ground beef are bought at Fruitland Dressed Meats because the Pilot House staff takes no shortcuts on cost and taste. "I don't ever want an 'Ugh, that was pretty good.' I always want a 'That was great!' response to our food," Wands said.

He said even though the food is part of the reason the Pilot House is normally packed, the atmosphere plays an enormous role in the customers' experiences.

"It's really a comfy family type of atmosphere. We're comfortable, so they're comfortable. Our employees stay for a long time because it is such a laid back friendly atmosphere," Wands said.

The motto printed on the Pilot House menu complies with the Pilot House and Wands' philosophies. The menu reads: "At the Pilot House we take pride in serving great food to great people and we know that once you try us, you'll be back."

The Pilot House's full menu is available between 11 a.m. and 9 p.m., with a night sandwich menu offered from 9 p.m. until close.

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Recommendations:

Pilot House general manager Mike Wands says they'll cook anything, including these favorites, made-to-order to suit each customer's taste buds.

Giant kabobs

1/2 pound burgers (1/2 pound when fully cooked)

Barbecue ribs

Catfish dinner (Fridays only)

Wilted salads with homemade bacon dressing.

Stuffed mushrooms

Amaretto bread pudding

Pilot House Bloody Mary