STRICTLY BUSINESS: VERTICAL STRIPES? TIMES CHANGE IN CLOTHING INDUSTRY

When Tommy Hilfiger introduced his vertical stripe design for a new line of sports coats and vests for 1994, there was some head-shaking in the clothing industry.

Nobody, but nobody, buys vertical stripes, said the experts.

That may have been true at one time, said Don Wood, executive vice president of the Tommy Hilfiger Line, Hart, Schaffner and Marx of Chicago, and a speaker at the Business Conference held at Show Me Center in Cape Girardeau last week. "But, I watched a 28-year sales veteran try not to sell one of the vertical stripe coats, but sold it anyway."

Wood tells this story.

"First off, Hilfiger doesn't call his creation a vertical striped coat, he calls it an old school blazer," Wood said.

Anyway, the story:

A big fellow, in his late 60s, walked into a Lord Taylor store to exchange a camel hair coat, and spotted the "old school blazer." He immediately decided he had to have the blazer rather than the camel hair coat, and asked the salesman if he had a 48-regular.

The salesman, less than enthusiastically, found a 48-regular. About this time, the customer saw a vest of the same material. He also wanted it.

As the man continued to look around, the salesman remarked, "It's not a suit. You won't find any pants."

The purpose of Wood's true tale was to demonstrate that "times are changing."

"The clothing industry is changing and we have to change to keep up," Wood said.

Hart, Shaffner & Marx, which produces sportswear and suits for men and women, has changed to keep up with consumers.

At one time, the clothier sold only to specialty stores.

"Five years ago, there were more than 1,000 specialties stores. Today, there are less than 600," he said. "So, now we sell to department stores."

One of Hart, Shaffner & Marx's biggest lines for men today is the Tommy Hilfiger line.

"Hilfiger is the hottest name in men's clothing designs today," said Wood, who has been in charge of the Hilfiger line for Hart, Shaffner and Marx the past two years. "He has become the most successful designer of the 1990s."

Wood referred to the vertical-striped sports coat and vest line as one of the best sellers of 1994.

The Hilfiger line produced more than $25 million in sales its first year, which is good news for Cape Girardeau.

Some of the Hilfiger line is produced in Cape Girardeau, at Thorngate Ltd, a 135,000-square-foot manufacturing facility at 1507 Independence in Cape Girardeau.

Wood said some clothing changes have resulted from what started out to be "casual Friday."

This has resulted in America loosening its corporate tie, and has sent manufacturers and retailers alike scurrying to keep up with the times.

Sports coats, slacks and colored shirts are becoming par for workday wear in many companies.

High heels are being replaced by flats and "career girl" clothing is giving way to the more casual flair.

"Dressing down" is on the way up.

Harry Rediger agrees.

"Change is coming every day," said Rediger, manager of J.C. Penney Co. Inc. in Cape Girardeau. "And, the casual dress evolution is much deeper than the Friday dress down. We're seeing a more casual trend in everyday business wear. We have to adapt to the changes."

The casual trend has come about over the past two years. During a recent survey of more than 200 companies, 78 percent reported no formal dress code, and 55 percent of them said casual wear is allowed during the course of the normal business day.

Rediger was a member of a retail panel at the Business Conference, sponsored by the Chamber of Commerce University Relations Committee and Southeast Missouri State University Harrison College of Business.

The carefree lifestyle is also expanding to home furnishings, Rediger said.

"We're seeing a trend to less formal draperies and other window dressing," he said. "We're already receiving a new line of casual window coverings here."

There are other changes.

Time is important to people these days, Rediger said.

"It used to be that a woman would spend a half-day in our store shopping," he said. "Now, they don't have time."

Labels are important to merchandising, too, he said, adding that Penney has two of its own labels that are big sellers, Stafford, men's wear, which is made by Hart, Shaffner & Marx, and Arizona jeans.

The Arizona jeans "exploded" last year, he said. "They could be a billion-dollar item for J. C. Penney in the future say merchandising experts."

"Change is coming every day," Rediger added. "Merchants who accept change will be winners, like the vertical striped suit and vests."

Other speakers who appeared on the retail panel last week were Judith R. Wilferth, president of Children's Bazaar in Cape Girardeau; Charles L. Hutson, president, Hutson Furniture Co.; and Dennis Marchi, manager, Schnucks.

"Personal time is important to consumers," said Wilferth. "Sixty-four percent of people don't enjoy shopping, so retailers have to make it easy and comfortable."

Hutson, whose furniture company is observing its 50th anniversary, said his company is "100 percent consumer driven.

"If you don't become the first choice of consumers, you're out of business," he said, citing research that shows furniture shoppers go to fewer than two stores before buying.

Marchi said the food industry was changing, too. "Good associates and service is important," he emphasized.

Wal-Mart and Kmart have emerged as big threats to the supermarket retail food industry, Marchi said, adding: "These big retailers use the grocery trade to attract customers to their stores. We can't beat them on prices. But, we provide quality foods at competitive prices and depend heavily on our associates to provide good service."

Retail sales up

Retail sales were up nationally in March, following a decline in February.

The U.S. Commerce Department said sales totaled a seasonally adjusted $191.7 billion last month, up 0.2 percent from the $191.3 billion in February.

The 1 percent February drop in sales had been the first since they fell 0.2 percent last May and was the largest decline since a 1 percent drop in January 1994.

Building materials led the March increase, jumping 1.4 percent in March. Furniture sales were up 1 percent.

The Commerce Department also reported sales in the first quarter of 1995 were 5.9 percent higher than in the same period a year earlier.

New on the business scene

Educational Services Inc. has opened in downtown Cape Girardeau.

Jan Gerard and Steve Gerard are president and vice president of the new business, which offers financial planning seminars to the public.

The seminars, said Steve Gerard, are designed to teach people ways they can minimize their taxes and maximize their investment returns.

Inflation's impact on savings, compound interest and how it works, stocks, bonds, mutual funds and taxes are among topics to be discussed during the three-session Successful Money Management Seminars, to be held at Southeast Missouri State University next month.

"This financial planning seminar is different from most," Steve Gerard said. "We don't try to sell people something. We teach them about all types of investments."

Gerard and his wife are registered representatives with MML Investors Services Inc. and will be instructors for the three-session course.

Steve Gerard has been a stock broker eight years. Jan Gerard is experienced as a seminar speaker. She previously worked with the Missouri Department of Mental Health and has conducted numerous educational seminars.

Two courses are scheduled next month: May 2, 9 and 16, and May 4, 11 and 18. Sessions are from 6:30 to 10 p.m. at the University Center Party Room.

Cost of the course is $49 in advance, or $69 if payment is made at the first session. People enrolling in the course may bring their spouse or a guest at no extra cost.

Enrollment is limited.

Target enrollment for the courses is 30 to 35 couples, Steve Gerard said.

Additional information is available by contacting Education Services Inc. at 114 A. N. Main in Cape Girardeau.

M.A.B. Paint Store has moved.

The new site at 1802 Broadway is only the third for the store in more than four decades.

The store was located in downtown Cape Girardeau 25 years before moving to 2349 Broadway 19 years ago.

"Our new location provides better parking," said Willard Russom, manager of the store for more than 20 years.