A growing wine industry in Southern Illinois

By B. Ray Owen

Special to Business Today

ALTO PASS, Ill. -- Before Alto Vineyards, the economic impact of the Southern Illinois grape and wine industry was easy to measure.

It's easy to measure nothing.

Today, more than two decades after Guy Renzaglia, Ted Wichmann and Skip Cosgrove started a vineyard in the hills just north of Alto Pass, the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail has become a tourist destination in Southern Illinois.

Alto Vineyards and Winery was the first in the area, and has received over 200 wine competition medals over the past 10 years. Other wineries in the area include Owl Creek Winery, Pomona Winery and Von Jakob Vineyards and Winery and Winghill Winery.

Owners of the five wineries, which have teamed to form the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail Association, agree that the area's wineries have breathed some new interest in the area's economics.

Tourism experts predict over the next decade that Illinois wineries will create more than 1,300 jobs, and generate $60 million in economic activity.

A recent report by the Illinois Grape and Wine Resources Council, reports that of the 25 million gallons of wine bought and sold in Illinois retail markets only about 200,000 gallons are produced by Illinois winemakers. That's about a million bottles of wine.

Half of that is sold at the wineries. Much of it is made at the wineries making up the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail.

Two years ago, the Illinois Grape and Wine Resources Council estimated the wine from Shawnee Hills wineries resulted in a million-dollar boost to the area's economy. That boost is greater now. With one more winery on the list and expansions of existing wineries, the total could be over $3 million.

A check with the five wineries in the area indicate that production is over the 150,000-bottle mark this year in the Shawnee Trails area.

Alto Vineyards of Alto Pass has been recognized as one of the "Best of the East" wineries in a millennium tasting contest, by "Vineyard and Winery Management," a national magazine of the grape and wine industries that sponsored the competition.

The new grape harvest season will start in late August and could be busier than usual this year.

"We're expanding our output to about 100,000 bottles," said Leon Dangbar, general manager at the Alto Winery, which has 10 acres of its own grapes.

Alto Vineyards will play host to the annual Shawnee Hills Wine Trail Festival Sept. 1-2. Alto Vineyards will also have two events of its own this fall -- a Crab Festival Sept. 22, and the two-day Union County Color Fest on Oct. 13-14.

Wine tastings, scenic hills

The Shawnee Hills Wine Trail offers wine tastings and scenic rolling hills punctuated with trellised rows of grapevines.

"It's the kind of wine trail you would find in the formative years of the California wine industry," said Paul Jacobs, an optometrist-turned-vintner, who with his wife Rhoda opened Von Jakob Vineyard in 1997.

The Jacobs are looking at expansion this year, adding a commissary kitchen.

"We cater weddings, showers, reunions, graduations, or any event," said Rhoda Jacobs. "We also have 'Murder Mystery Dinner Theater.'"

The Von Jakob Winery produces as many as 17 different varieties featuring dry wine, white blushes, ports and chardenels.

The Jacobs attribute the success of the area wineries to Shawnee Hill Wine Trail Association. Because of the proximity of Southern Illinois University at Carbondale, the trail draws many international visitors -- from Germany, France, England and elsewhere.

Not from grapes alone

At the neighboring Pomona Winery, apples are the principal fruit of choice for winemaking. The region enjoys a fine reputation for its apple orchards and the winery uses locally harvested apples as well as Illinois-grown strawberries, peaches and blueberries.

George Majka and Jane Payne, both trained as psychologists, founded Pomona Winery in 1991 and released the first wine in 1993. Many of its wines, including six apple wines (ranging from semi-dry Jonathan Oak-Aged Reserve to sweet, aromatic Orchard Spice), won medals in national and international competitions.

Pomona Winery sits deep in the Shawnee Hills. Nearby is the Pomona Natural Bridge, with a span of 90 feet that measures between 6 feet and 9 feet wide. It crosses a trickling stream and is one of only a handful of natural bridges in the United States.

Owl Creek Vineyards occupies a European-style stucco winery surrounded by a 2-acre vineyard. Founded in 1995 by Ted Wichmann, it makes all of its wines from grapes grown in Southern Illinois.

These include a dry red estate wine (made entirely from grapes cultivated at Owl Creek); a dry, white, oak-aged Vidal made in a French chardonnay style; and a fruity, semi-sweet white blend.

Winghill Winery is the newest addition to the group, opening in February 2000.

"My parents have been raising grapes a number of years," said Martha Ferguson, daughter of owners Judith and Richard Parks. "We produce about eight varieties of wine and purchase only local grapes to go along with our own grapes."

B. Ray Owen is business editor at the Southeast Missourian.

Shawnee Hills Wine Trail

Alto Vineyards and Winery -- Highway 127, north of Alto Pass, Ill. First wine in 1988. Owned by Renzaglia family. Open 1 to 5 p.m. Sunday through Friday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday. Favorite wines: Chambourcin, dry red; and a white Chardonel.

Owl Creek Vineyards -- 2655 Water Valley Rd, Cobden, Ill. Opened in 1995. Open noon to 5 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. Owned by Ted Wichmann. Favorite wines: Water Valley White, a semi-sweet; Owl's Leap, a dry red.

Von Jakob Vineyard -- 1309 Sadler Rd, Pomona, Ill. Owned by Dr. Paul and Rhoda Jacobs. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Saturday; noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. Favorite wines: Traminette Estate Bottle, a semi-sweet, and Chardonel, a dry.

Pomona Winery -- 2865 Hickory Ridge Rd, Pomona, Ill. Fruit wines (apple, peach, strawberry, blueberry). Owned by George Majka and Jane Payne. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday; noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. Favorite wines: Jonathan Oak-Age Reserve, apple wine; and Orchard Spice, a dessert wine.

Winghill Winery -- 5100 Winghill Road, Cobden, opened in February 2000. Owned by Judith and Richard Parks. Open noon to 5 p.m. Friday through Sunday. Favorite wines: Robin's Revenge, a dry red, and Hallsberry, a semi-dry blueberry wine.