Say it isn't soy U.S. companies challenge Japan's proposal for

WASHINGTON-- The dark spicy sauce that adds a kick to stir-fry or a tang to grilled salmon is a new source of conflict between Japan and the United States.

Japan wants soy sauce labeled, particularly unfermented U.S.-made brands that some food purists contend are only an imitation of the Japanese brew.

U.S. manufacturers of nontraditional sauces -- often made from soy protein mixed with water, salt and cereal grains -- worry they'll lose customers if they have to specify on labels that their product is not brewed or is brewed only slightly. Any labeling, they argue, should be voluntary.

Like butter vs. margarine, the issue is whether food items should have to carry labels distinguishing between original products and their substitutes. But for the Japanese, the authenticity of soy sauce is a matter of cultural pride, says Bruce Silverglade, legal director of the Center for Science in the Public Interest.

"Americans have generally accepted imitation soy sauce, but such products are offensive to nations who know what soy sauce really is," said Silverglade. "The proposal that the United States has made represents a cultural perversion of a national product."

Traditional product in Japan

Traditional soy sauce is made from fermented soy beans, along with other grains. Fermentation can take three months or more, depending on the flavor and consistency that the manufacturer wants.

Manufacturers of nonbrewed or slightly brewed sauces don't want to offend the Japanese, according to Martin Hahn, a Washington attorney representing a dozen U.S. companies that produce the condiment or ingredients for it.

"We certainly don't want to infringe on any country's cultural heritage and recognize that we certainly have to be respectful of anyone's cultural heritage. But on the flip-side, the Japanese proposal is trying to determine what is a favorable soy sauce," Hahn said.

Though soy sauce is commonly used in all types of Asian cooking, W. Mark Fruin, author of the book, "Kikkoman: Company, Clan and Community," said the Japanese may have made it a unique product because they experimented with creating different sauces and flavors through brewing and fermentation.

"In Japan, I think there's been a major effort by the manufacturers to educate consumers," says Fruin, a business professor at San Jose State University. "There may be a Japanese preference that you wouldn't find in other parts of Asia."

Soy sauce is big business in Japan, with companies such as Kikkoman dominating sales and production. And consumers have an array of sauces to choose from, including light, dark, thick, Chinese tamari and Thai sauces.

Commission to hear case

While protein-based sauces may not be a chef's choice, Hahn said they are a better option for some consumers because they're less expensive. If consumers want a brewed sauce, they only need to check the ingredients on the label, he says.

The dispute, however, won't be settled in a grocery store, restaurant or the kitchen. Hahn and Japan are making their arguments to the Codex Alimentarius Commission, a group of international officials that help design policies to encourage fair international food trade. Its policies aren't mandatory, but several countries rely on its standards.

Ed Scarbrough, manager of Codex, said Japan has modified its proposal to meet some objections but that it still appears to be a requirement, which countries such as the United States will challenge.

The commission has scheduled a meeting in September to discuss the proposal and consider the effect it could have on consumers and trade. Disputes over commission recommendations are sometimes taken to the World Trade Organization.