CONCORD, N.H. -- This time of year it should be a felony not to shop at farmers' markets and farm stands.

As summer winds down, the season's best produce is beckoning, from sweet ears of corn and beefy tomatoes to tiny hot peppers with snap, and melons of every shape and color.

Before long the apples will be falling and butternut squashes will be piled high. After that we're back to the plastic-tasting produce of winter, lamenting what we should have eaten more of during summer.

So waste no time. This is food at its freshest, and seasonings almost are an insult. We have become so used to bad grocery-store produce we forget how easy it is to cook when the ingredients are at their finest.

Our farmers' market, which opens early on Saturdays along a closed-off street that borders the Statehouse, is just hitting its stride. June and July can be slim months in New Hampshire, but in August and September we feast.

On a recent weekend, I arrived at the market as early as I could drag myself from bed. The best tomatoes and salad greens go fast, so I make a point of being among the first to poke through the stalls of produce and fresh-baked breads.

Cooking is so much easier and faster when you take your cues from the seasons. There is no excuse not to cook fresh when our raw ingredients are this good.

Want a quick pasta dish you'll never forget? Crush (literally, with your hands) fresh tomatoes over a bowl of warm pasta. Tear in some basil leaves and drizzle with olive oil. That's it. It will be so much better than anything from a jar.

Or for something with a bit of a Mexican flair, try peach salsa. Toss it with pasta, scoop it with nachos or spoon it over a burrito filled with beans and sautéed onions.

If you've got tomatoes to spare, try them with eggplant and onions for a quick pasta sauce. This sauce also would be good tossed with brown rice and beans and topped with grated cheese.

In the salsa, add hot peppers according to taste. Keep in mind that the seeds add heat, so remove them if you like it mild. For this recipe, I use two habaneros (with most seeds removed) for a mild salsa.

I also like to use a variety of tomatoes, such as yellow and Roma, to give the salsa more visual appeal. When they are in season, try substituting apples for the peaches. Also, add one or two ears of corn kernels.

Peach Salsa

(Preparation 15 minutes)

1 pound very ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into quarters

2 peaches, pitted and cut into quarters

1/2 large Spanish onion, coarsely diced

Juice of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, diced (leaves only)

3 tablespoons fresh parsley, diced (leaves only)

1 teaspoon fresh dill, diced

Hot peppers, diced, to taste

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon salt

Combine all ingredients in a food processor. Pulse in 1-second intervals to combine and dice all ingredients. It will take about 20 pulses to get the ingredients well blended.

Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour before serving.

Makes about 3 cups. Keeps for 1 week refrigerated.

Seasonal Pasta Sauce

(Preparation 45 minutes)

1 large Spanish onion, diced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

5 cloves garlic, minced

1 large eggplant, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks

3 pounds very ripe tomatoes, cut into large chunks

1/4 cup red wine (Chianti and Shiraz are nice)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, torn

Combine the onion, olive oil and garlic in a large skillet over a medium-high flame. Sauté for about 5 minutes, or until onion is just translucent and the garlic is fragrant. Stir frequently to ensure onions and garlic don't burn.

Add the eggplant and sauté, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes, or until eggplant begins to soften. Add the tomatoes and red wine. Bring to a strong simmer and cook uncovered for about 15 minutes. Stir frequently.

Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper. Just before serving, sprinkle with basil leaves.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.