TJ's Burgers, Wings and Pizza is back, but is it better than ever?

It's been four years since TJ's Burgers, Wings and Pizza has been featured in this column.

In that time, TJ's has not only become a staple in Fruitland, but it has closed, moved and then reopened. I thought it was high time I checked it out at the new location and answered that all-important question: TJ's is back, but is it better than ever?

TJ's new location is nearly across the street from its old location. It sits on the corner of the intersection of 61 and 177, the place I used to walk to to buy fireworks 30 years ago. Man, that intersection has changed over the years, signs of progress creeping out from Cape and Jackson like a living thing. The first thing you will notice about TJ's new location is how open it is, with lots of breathing space, and that infernal echo is gone. The second thing you'll notice is the decoration on the wall. The huge painted letters proclaiming, "My grandma isn't the only Angry Kraut," were particularly eye-catching and chuckle-inducing. The Angry Kraut is the name of one of the burgers on the menu, topped with a bratwurst, sauerkraut and spicy mustard. I've had it before. It's wonderful.

This time around, I noticed a new section of the menu, listing Rollies. The waitress explained it to me as like a cinnamon roll but stuffed with things other than cinnamon. I ordered a savory Rollie called the Jala-Mango for an appetizer, soft, lovely pizza dough, spread with grilled chicken, pepper jack cheese and jalapeno mango sauce and rolled, sliced and cooked to a perfect golden brown. The flavor punched me in the face, full of spice but not too bad, a slow lip-warming burn. The bread was amazing, and I definitely want to work my way through the new rollies on the menu, one by one, comparing and contrasting and picking my favorite. New item, highly recommended.

I wasn't feeling a burger this day (again), so I ordered shrimp tacos. Oh my goodness. Medium-sized flour tortillas stuffed with three large pieces of grilled shrimp and covered in pico de gallo and green chili aioli, this was the best thing I had to eat all week. Delicious, filling, fresh, I felt guilt-free enjoying this meal. Combine that feeling with the actual amazing taste of the shrimp grilled to perfection, not rubbery but still with that crisp little edge from grilling. I've just talked myself into ordering that for lunch again today.

My husband took one for the newspaper team and ordered a burger so I could at least talk about one of the things TJ's has in its name. He ordered the Big Boy, an absolute monster of a burger. Three patties with three cheeses, six pieces of bacon, three buns and the veggies. It was beautiful, all the fresh colors of tomato and lettuce, and a fluffy brioche bun able to hold the whole thing together. I didn't have a ruler with me, but I'm estimating that the burger was between seven and eight inches tall. There is ketchup and mustard on the table, and if I had been eating it, I would have asked for some mayo, too. I mean, you're already eating a three-patty burger, a little mayo won't push you over the edge, because you're already there, my friend. There was plenty for me to try, and the patty was juicy and seasoned well. The bacon was a winner and with a deep smoky taste, the star of this sandwich. It was just a good, solid, ridiculously-sized burger with ripe vegetables and a size-appropriate bun. No, he didn't eat it all in one go, but I bet there are some who would, and more power to you!

I wanted to try the fries, and so fair warning: TJ's regular fries are seasoned fries. They are good, but if you were expecting just fried potatoes and salt, look somewhere else. I still liked mine with ketchup, so it was all good.

I feel like I got a good taste of the burgers and pizza part of TJ's, with the Big Boy and the rollies. I didn't try the wings in the new location yet, but if they're like the old ones, they are big, juicy and sauced out of this world. The new, echo-free location feels like a breath of fresh air, and the food was on point. Definitely back and better than ever.