BRATISLAVA, Slovakia -- Locals like to joke that the Slovak capital is upside-down.

Bratislava's most infamous bridge looks as though a giant UFO has landed on its top. A castle overlooking the Danube River bears a bizarre resemblance to a flipped-over table. And the state radio headquarters is an inverted pyramid.

Architectural oddities aside, though, there's nothing backward about Bratislava, Vienna's next-door neighbor to the east, which seems to have launched a charm offensive aimed at sweeping away the last vestiges of communism.

The city of 430,000 hasn't yet made it on the itineraries of most travel agencies offering European tours, but it's a perfect side trip for those visiting the Austrian capital just 40 miles away and eager to glimpse a country in transition.

"The city's center is beautifully renovated and has a great atmosphere," said Tana Tekusova, a university student. "It's worth visiting ... not huge like Vienna or Paris, but cozier and friendlier."

Bratislava has come a long way from its gray, shabby communist days. Today, locals and tour groups alike pack the pulsing cafes around Hlavne Namestie, the main square of the old town.

To be sure, the last century wasn't kind to this once lively metropolitan city of Slovaks, Hungarians, Germans and Jews.

Its charm and multiculturalism was damaged during World War II, when Slovakia served as a puppet state to Nazi Germany. The communists took over shortly after the war and stayed in power for 41 years, wiping out family run stores, cafe life and carefree crowds from the streets.

But now, the changes since Slovakia shook off communism in 1989 are evident.

Bratislava has made a tremendous comeback, turning into a favorite destination with the old town freshly renovated in pastel colors and cafes and restaurants teeming with life.

The municipality and private investors have put millions of dollars into renovation of the city center. Visitors don't have to go far to step into the past: Just across the Danube is the suburb of Petrzalka, a bleak example of the communist-era obsession with concrete.

"In the early 1990s, people demanded renovation of the historical center," said Milan Vajda, a city spokesman. "They demanded not only reconstruction, but also spiritual revival."

Your feet won't get sore while touring the city, because it won't take long. But history here is tangled up everywhere, and it's bound to test your memory.

For example, the current presidential palace was built by a nobleman in the 18th century. During WWII, it served as the seat to the wartime president, later replaced by the communist youth organization's headquarters.

Renovated in shades of white and gray, it's not guarded like the White House, so visitors are free to roam its manicured gardens.