LITCHFIELD, Conn. -- Dublin has always been a fun destination, if only to spend time with friends and family, at St. Patrick's or any season. At one time, it was a must for a pub-crawl. Fast-forward to today, and you'll find the city rated among Europe's popular dining destinations.

Food is taken very seriously in the Irish capital, everyone is eating out, and social life is much changed. Don't expect to be invited to the "local" for a pint after work. Get used to the fact that instead you'll be having a latte at one of the tiny hip cafes with computer toys along the narrow side streets with their many twists and turns.

Hitting the pubs and clubs comes much later in the evening.

Dublin's modern cuisine reflects the changing population and new directions in the country's social culture. In St. Stephen's Green, for example, there is the highly acclaimed Kevin Thornton's, upstairs in the Fitzwilliam Hotel.

So who is Kevin Thornton?

He is Ireland's only native two-star Michelin chef. After working in London, Switzerland, France and Canada, he finally returned to Ireland.

Thornton goes off to market daily to choose his produce, paying careful attention to every ingredient he uses.

"I spend a great deal of time finding the very best from the local farmers," he says. "Ireland is a great source for produce. The raw materials I use are always my first priority, and, second, to use them properly.

"With three quarters of the world's population starving, it is very important for me to have respect for food and not to abuse it."

James O'Shea, chef and co-owner of West Street Grill, Litchfield, Conn., visits his native Ireland, often enough to fully savor the flowering of Irish cuisine. He has adapted the following recipes from Thornton's for home cooks who may wish to celebrate St. Patrick's Day with a new taste of Ireland.

Loin of Venison with Purple Potato Puree

For the venison:

1/2 teaspoon olive oil for marinade

A few threads of saffron

Fresh thyme leaves

2 1/4 pounds venison loin

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

Make a marinade with olive oil, saffron and thyme; marinate venison for 6 hours. Drain venison, roll and tie with butcher's string. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Heat oil in saute pan; sear all sides of the venison (about 2 minutes on each of the four sides). Finish by roasting in 400 degree oven for 10 minutes. Let meat rest for 5 to 10 minutes before slicing. Carve into 6 or 12 sections.

For the potatoes:

1 1/2 pounds purple potatoes (Peruvian fingerling, if available), or Yukon Gold potatoes

6 tablespoons butter

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1/2 cup cream

2 tablespoons white truffle oil

Boil potatoes in their skins until soft. Peel while hot using a fork to protect your hands; puree, add butter and cream; season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm; add truffle oil just before serving, so it retains its pungency.

For the sauce:

1 shallot, minced

1 clove garlic, finely minced

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

1/2 cup dry Madeira

3 ounces concentrated veal demi-glace (see note)

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cook shallot and garlic briefly, to soften, over medium heat in butter (about 5 minutes). Add Madeira; continue to cook, to reduce by two-thirds. Add veal demi-glace and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper.

For vegetable accompaniment: 1/2 bunch thin asparagus (use 3-inch tops of spears)

8 ounces sugar snap peas

1 medium white turnip, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch cubes

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Salt and pepper to taste

Bring 2 quarts salted water to boiling. Blanch, then plunge into ice water, separately, asparagus tips, peas and turnip. Drain vegetables. In saucepan over low heat, reheat vegetables; glaze with butter, and season to taste.

To serve venison:

Place a large oval mound of potatoes on each plate; arrange the vegetables next to the potatoes; overlap venison slices in the center of the plate, and pour sauce around it.

Makes 6 servings.

Note from chef James O'Shea: A rich, robust veal and duck demi-glace which requires no further reduction is made by D'Artagnan Inc. Its intense gelatinous texture comes from the slow cooking of bones and vegetables. Available in specialty grocery stores across the United States, in frozen-food sections, or from 1-800-Dartagnan. On the Web: www.dartagnan.com.

Lemon Posset

Recipe from James O'Shea

2 cups heavy cream

3/4 cup sugar

Juice of 2 large lemons

Blackberries, raspberries, sliced strawberries, sections of blood oranges, as desired (about 2 cups total)

Fresh mint, for garnish

Confectioner's sugar

Pour heavy cream and sugar into a heavy-bottomed, non-reactive saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to medium; continue cooking and stirring vigorously for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice.

Pour cream mixture into 6 tall crystal custard cups and refrigerate until firm (at least 3 hours). Serve in the custard cups, garnished with berries and-or blood-orange wedges and fresh mint, dusted with confectioner's sugar.

Makes 6 servings.