Cook at the table for a fast New Year's dinner

Want the recipe for a perfect New Year's Eve party? Let your guests do the cooking.

But this isn't a potluck. This is tabletop cooking, a relaxed and fun way to turn a dinner party into something special. And because it tends to be a slow way to cook and eat, it's perfect for an evening that needs to stretch to midnight.

Here's how it works. The host provides a variety of ingredients and a means of cooking them. Guests then come to the table to assemble and cook their own food during the dinner.

Since the ingredients depend on the cooking method, we'll start there.

There are numerous ways to cook at the table. Mini hibachis, for example, are tiny grills intended for tabletop cooking and reheating. They are available in numerous styles.

Sterno (a food- and indoor-safe gel) is the best fuel for hibachis. There's no mess, few fumes and it's readily available at kitchen and hardware shops. However, there still can be smoke (from the food), so smoke detectors may be triggered.

The trick to this style of cooking is to either precook any meats (so guests mostly are reheating) or to cut the meat thin. This ensures the food cooks through quickly and completely. Thinly sliced and marinated beef or shrimp are ideal.

Alternatively, use foods that don't need to be cooked. For example, wrap lightly steamed, then cooled asparagus spears in prosciutto, or top chilled cooked shrimp with diced tomato and grated cheese, then let guests heat them.

Another great option is raclette, which refers to both a cheese and a cooking device. The cheese is a fatty, pungent cow's milk cheese from Switzerland that melts well and is similar to Gruyere. It traditionally is eaten melted and poured over cooked potatoes, then sprinkled with flavorful ingredients such as chopped vegetables, cured meats, condiments and herbs.

The cooking device that goes by the same name is a bit like a round toaster oven that sits at the center of the table. The device is plugged in, and it heats up. Each diner is given a small tray, which can be piled with cheese and other ingredients, then placed in the device. The device melts and cooks the ingredients, which then are poured over potatoes or other vegetables. The device also can be used to cook thinly sliced meats and seafoods.

Raclette machines are widely available at kitchen shops and online. And because these usually accommodate up to eight diners and require no fuel (they're electric), this can be the more economical way to go.

To prepare raclette for a dinner party, assemble a variety of good melting cheeses and other ingredients, such as cooked meats, chopped vegetables, fresh herbs or a variety of olives, etc.

Just before serving, cook a variety of new or other small potatoes. Place them in a covered pot to keep warm, then bring everything to the table and let dinner begin.

Whichever technique you use, it's best to keep the party small. Indoor open flames and crowds rarely mix. And a gaggle of diners reaching for raclette trays is bound to cause trouble. Eight to 10 adult guests probably is the maximum.

This recipe for thinly sliced marinated beef would work for either mini hibachi cooking or raclette. Offer chopped fresh scallions, fresh cilantro and chopped, seeded tomatoes as toppings.

Asian Marinated Steaks

Start to finish: 1 hour marinating

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

3 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar

1/2 cup beef broth

1 1/2 pounds rib-eye steak, very thinly sliced

Chopped fresh scallions

Chopped fresh cilantro

Chopped, seeded tomatoes

In a blender, combine the red pepper flakes, sesame seeds, black pepper, soy sauce, sesame oil, rice vinegar and beef broth. Blend until smooth.

Transfer the spice blend to a large zip-close plastic bag. Add the beef, being sure to separate the slices. Seal the bag and gently shake to coat. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to a day.

When ready to serve, drain the steak slices and arrange on a serving plate. Let guests cook steak strips as desired, and serve with scallions, cilantro and tomatoes.

If you don't want to cook at the table, these steaks also could be arranged in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and cooked under a broiler for 4 to 5 minutes, turning the steaks after about 2 minutes. Serves 8.