FeaturesJuly 1, 2009

With so many fruits in peak season by July Fourth, summery desserts almost make themselves. Fruits are always a treat when eaten unadorned and out of hand, but they're also the perfect starting place for an impressive variety of pies, cakes, bars, tarts and crumbles...

By JIM ROMANOFF ~ The Associated Press
This photo taken  may 12, 2009 shows Blueberry Lemon Squares.  The fresh fruit of the summer helps make creating desserts a snap. Blueberry Lemon Squares will travel well for a Fourth of July picnic. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)
This photo taken may 12, 2009 shows Blueberry Lemon Squares. The fresh fruit of the summer helps make creating desserts a snap. Blueberry Lemon Squares will travel well for a Fourth of July picnic. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)

With so many fruits in peak season by July Fourth, summery desserts almost make themselves.

Fruits are always a treat when eaten unadorned and out of hand, but they're also the perfect starting place for an impressive variety of pies, cakes, bars, tarts and crumbles.

"This is not the time to be mucking about with complicated recipes," said cookbook author Barbara Kafka. "I just want it simple so I can taste the fruit when it's at its best."

For the Fourth, Kafka likes a classic strawberry shortcake. She makes it special by layering classic shortcake biscuits with sponge cake, then whipped cream and strawberry filling inside and topping with more cream and whole berries.

The shortcake concept is both fuss-free and versatile, Kafka said. Almost any fruit can be substituted for the strawberries. For a truly extraordinary take on the idea, she suggests using cut up fresh figs.

This photo taken may 25, 2009 shows a Raspberry and Beaujolais Granita. Just for the adults, this Raspberry and Beaujolais Granita is a good way to cap off a July Fourth party. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)
This photo taken may 25, 2009 shows a Raspberry and Beaujolais Granita. Just for the adults, this Raspberry and Beaujolais Granita is a good way to cap off a July Fourth party. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)

Diana Henry, author of "Pure Simple Cooking," also favors no fuss. For an elegant, but easy dish she hulls and quarters fresh strawberries, then douses them with enough Beaujolais (or pinot noir) wine to cover, plus a generous sprinkling of sugar.

"Leave them to macerate for 30 minutes," she said, "and there you have it."

Rhubarb, one of the first crops of the season, can be cooked down with strawberries and enough sugar to balance the tartness to create a fruit compote that is quintessentially summer.

Kafka uses this blend as a filling for pies and tarts, and as the base for crumbles or cobblers. It's also wonderful on its own, or spooned over ice cream or pound cake.

Stone fruits are heading into high season by the Fourth.

This photo taken May 25, 2009 shows a Grilled S'mores-stuffed Banana.  Digging into a gooey, warm Grilled S'mores-stuffed Banana will be a delight to kids and adults alike. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)
This photo taken May 25, 2009 shows a Grilled S'mores-stuffed Banana. Digging into a gooey, warm Grilled S'mores-stuffed Banana will be a delight to kids and adults alike. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)

Grilling fruits caramelizes their sugars and intensifies flavors. Plus, it's a fun and easy dessert for backyard barbecues.

Brush the cut face of halved peaches or nectarines with melted butter or vegetable oil, then grill, cut-side down, over medium-high until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Turn the fruit over and, if you like, spoon some blueberry or blackberry preserves into the cavity of each, then continue grilling until the fruit is tender but not mushy, about 5 to 7 minutes longer.

These grilled stone fruits are delicious on their own and especially nice served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt.

Frozen desserts are another crowd pleaser, and fresh fruits make a perfect base. Ice cream makers are relatively inexpensive and easy to use, but if you have a food processor it's even easier to make icy, fresh fruit sorbets.

The basic sorbet technique is simple. If using berries, they should be rinsed and frozen on trays until they are solid. Larger fruits should be peeled and cut into smaller pieces before being frozen so your food processor can puree them easily.

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Place about 3 cups of frozen fruit and a cup of juice, or a blend of frozen juice concentrate and water, in the bowl of a food processor, then process until smooth. Serve it right away, or transfer to a plastic container and freeze to enjoy later.

For a creamy variation, instead of using juice, freeze a cup of low-fat yogurt or sour cream, then process it in to your sorbet. For a bit more decadence use frozen whipping cream.

Of course, if you have fruit that is absolutely exquisite, the simplest and often most enjoyable approach is to serve it on its own. For instance, Henry likes to fill a shallow bowl with ice cubes and serve really sweet ripe cherries on top.

"Cherries on ice," she said, "what could be better?"

RASPBERRY AND BEAUJOLAIS GRANITA

Save this grown-up dessert for the adults; children will be just as happy with fudge pops, anyway. Fresh raspberries and the lush flavor of Beaujolais red wine combine for a cooling treat. A granita has a crystallized texture that is less smooth than a sorbet.

1 1/2 pounds fresh raspberries (4 cups)

3/4 cup superfine sugar, divided

3/4 cup Beaujolais red wine

In a medium bowl, toss the raspberries with 1/4 cup of the sugar. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, stir together the remaining 1/2 cup sugar with 10 tablespoons of the wine. Boil over medium-high heat for 2 minutes, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Set aside to cool.

In a food processor, puree the sugared berries. Use a mesh strainer to strain the puree into a medium bowl. Mix in the cooled syrup and remaining wine.

Transfer the mixture to a large baking dish. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze. After 2 hours, use a fork to scrape the frozen mixture from around the edges of the container and mix it into the rest of the liquid. Cover and return to the freezer.

Repeat the scraping and mixing every 2 hours three more times (for a total of 6 hours additional freezing time). The texture should be crystallized and icy, not smooth like a sorbet.

If prepared a day ahead, defrost the granita in the refrigerator for 20 minutes and mix with a fork before serving.

(Recipe from Diana Henry's "Pure Simple Cooking," Ten Speed Press, 2009)

* Start to finish: 9 hours (20 minutes active)

* Servings: 8

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