What better time than prime artichoke season to try a new recipe for making the most of this beloved edible thistle?

A chef from Monterey County, Calif., offers the following dish, inspired by an advantageous position as a professional working in the heart of the artichoke growing country. The region produces most of the artichokes eaten in the United States -- the town of Castroville is dubbed "artichoke capital of the world."

Artichokes are the flower buds on large thistle-family plants, and baby artichokes are simply lower-growth flowers on the primary stalks. In full growth, an artichoke plant can spread 9 feet in diameter and stand 5 feet tall; one plant can produce 20 or more artichokes a year.

Nearly 4 million artichokes are harvested annually from the region, according to the Monterey County Convention and Visitors Bureau. The season for fresh artichokes starts in early spring and rises to a peak in May, with later season supplies available through October. Frozen artichokes, of course, are always available.

Your fresh-bought artichokes are best stored in a plastic bag with a sprinkling of moisture in the refrigerator, until they are fried, steamed, sauteed, boiled, microwaved or grilled. In the cook's hands, this versatile flower bud can be an appetizer or a garnish, a vegetarian entree or a side dish for all to dig into.

As for the perfect dressing, among a variety of possibilities two main preferences have been observed: Eastern states prefer butter while Western regions opt for mayonnaise or aioli.

Artichokes are not hard to prepare, and this recipe suggests tasty uses as an appetizer or side dish.

Fire-Roasted Artichokes With Herb Aioli Sauce

(Recipe from Rafael Santoyo, executive chef, Phil's Fish Market, Moss Landing, Calif.)

2 extra-large artichokes

For the marinade:

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

1 shallot, chopped

1/4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoons chopped basil or cilantro

Salt and pepper to taste

Lemon wedges for garnish

Optional garnish: your choice of caviar

In medium pan with steamer, bring water to a boil. Trim artichoke bottoms and leaf-tops flat. Steam artichokes for 25 to 35 minutes until tender at the core. Drain, cool and cut in half. Cut out fibrous, fuzzy centers.

Mix together all ingredients for marinade. Place steamed artichokes in marinade for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from mixture and place on char broiler or barbecue with the leaves of the artichokes facing up on grill. Cook for 4 to 6 minutes depending upon fire temperature, just long enough to heat for serving and add grill-smoke flavor. Remove from grill and serve with lemon-wedge garnish.

Makes 4 appetizer servings.

Suggested wine: a Monterey County sauvignon blanc.

Herb Aioli

1/3 cup day-old bread crumbs

1/2 tablespoon white wine vinegar

6 to 8 garlic cloves

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 egg yolks

1 1/2 cups olive oil

1/4 cup fresh chopped basil or cilantro

White pepper and hot pepper sauce, to taste

Combine crumbs, vinegar, garlic, salt and egg yolks in food processor. Drizzle in olive oil. Add white pepper and hot pepper sauce to taste. Add fresh basil or cilantro to food processor; blend for 1 minute more, until creamy.

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Chef's tip for the following main course recipe: Use fresh artichokes whenever possible. If pressed for time or fresh artichokes aren't available, use two 6-ounce jars of marinated artichoke hearts, drained.

Braised Chicken with Castroville Baby Artichokes

(Recipe from Michael Kimmel, executive chef, Tarpy's Roadhouse, Monterey, Calif.)

2 lemons

2 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 pounds raw baby artichokes (or two 6-ounce jars marinated artichoke hearts, drained)

6 chicken breast halves (skinless and boneless, if preferred)

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium tomatoes, cut into chunks

1 red bell pepper, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch strips

1 yellow bell pepper, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch strips

1 medium yellow onion, peeled, cut in half, then into 1/4-inch strips

4 cups small red-skinned potatoes, cut into bite-size pieces

2 cups cremini mushrooms, cut into large chunks

1/4 cup capers, rinsed and drained

1/2 cup white wine

1 cup canned chicken broth

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus 1 teaspoonful chopped zest

2 bay leaves, whole

6 to 10 dashes hot pepper sauce, to taste

Bring 8 quarts of water to boil, add the lemons, carrots, garlic and salt. Then carefully add the whole baby artichokes. Return to a simmer for about 20 minutes until artichokes are tender. Drain and allow to cool. Working with a sharp knife and one artichoke at a time, cut off about 3/4-inch of the top and the stem. Pull off the outer leaves, then slice each in half. (In more mature artichokes, it may be necessary to dig out the inedible fibrous center part above the soft artichoke heart.) Process all the artichokes in this manner, set aside. This procedure can be done up to 2 days in advance and the artichokes refrigerated.

Season chicken breasts with salt, pepper and rosemary on both sides. Heat a large heavy pan that has a tight-fitting lid until very hot, then add the oil without the lid. Carefully add the chicken breasts, skin side down, to brown; then turn to brown other side. Add the artichokes and remaining ingredients. Cover, bring to a boil, then allow to simmer for about 20 minutes or until chicken and potatoes are cooked through. Serve in individual bowls, to hold generous quantities of the tasty cooking liquid.

Makes 6 servings.

Wine suggestion: Monterey County chardonnay.