A HARTE APPETITE: APPLES PROVIDE PLENTY OF TASTE AND NUTRIENTS

"An apple a day keeps the doctor away," says an old adage. Though the maxim has less relevance today than when physicians made house calls, it is nonetheless true that apples are good for you. They contain vitamins A and C, iron, thiamine, boron, riboflavin, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, and malic acid, which promotes digestion. They have no fat, cholesterol, or sodium and are an excellent source of fiber. What is more, eating an apple is good for your teeth and gums.

But apples are not only rich in nutrients. From the story of the Garden of Eden to the story of Snow White, this 3000-year old fruit has always been rich in symbolism as well. For example, apples dipped in honey are part of the ritual of Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year celebration, which begins tomorrow.

But what most commends an apple is its taste, which, some dietitians note, we begin cultivating in infancy. Applesauce, after all, is usually one of a baby's first solid foods. No wonder the apple is the world's most widely eaten fruit.

Though apples are not native to this country (neither is apple pie for that matter), they are now grown in 39 of the 50 states and American varieties constitute 80 percent of the world market. The Golden Delicious, which was born in Missouri, by itself accounts for 65 percent of that market. Granny Smiths, originated by an actual grandmother in Australia, aren't close.

Whatever your favorite variety, now is the time when it is at its peak. In fact, October is National Apple Month. Whether you like them merely baked with a little butter and brown sugar (for a twist try roasting them in a balsamic vinaigrette), caramel coated (if you want to gild the lily, roll them in chopped Heath bar bits before the caramel hardens), as an ingredient in an entree or side dish (they're great in curries), or simply eaten out of hand, you'll find apples literally by the bushel at the market this time of year. The following recipes, which demonstrate the versatility of apples, can help you capitalize on that harvest.

Brie-Apple Bisque

This soup from Cooking Smart by Sharon Tyler Herbst, former president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals, can only be described as voluptuous. It can be made two days ahead and reheated.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons butter

1 medium onion, sliced

8 cups chicken stock

2 pounds unpeeled apples, cored and chopped

1 large clove garlic

1 star anise

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 pound Brie, rind removed, cut into small pieces, softened

1 cup half-and-half

salt and white pepper

Directions:

Saute onion in butter over medium heat. Bring broth to boil. Add remaining ingredients except Brie and half-and-half. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 30 minutes. Stir in Brie and half-and-half and cook 5 minutes more. Puree soup in blender, then strain back into pot. Season to taste. Serves 8-10.

Chicken Normandy

The French region of Normandy is known for its apples. Thus, "a la Normande" generally signifies a dish made with apples (or cider or apple brandy), though it can also indicate a dish made with cream. This recipe from Gourmet magazine has both.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon thyme

1 whole skinless boneless chicken breast, halved

3 tablespoons oil

3/4 cup brandy

1/4 cup thinly sliced mushrooms

1/4 cup chopped pecans

1/2 cup thinly sliced, peeled Granny Smith apple

1/2 cup thinly sliced, peeled Red Delicious apple

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot

3/4 cup apple juice

3/4 cup heavy cream

Directions:

Combine flour and thyme and dredge chicken in mixture, shaking off excess. Heat oil in skillet over moderate heat until hot and cook chicken 2-3 minutes on each side until browned lightly. Add brandy, deglaze skillet, scraping up brown bits, and boil mixture 2 minutes. Stir in rest of ingredients except apple juice and cream and cook 2 minutes. Add juice and cream and cook 2-3 minutes until sauce thickens. Serves 2.

Fresh Apple Spice Cake

More than 20 years ago Ida Mae Jordan, the minister's wife, submitted this recipe for the church cookbook and ever since it has been a favorite of the ladies in the Friendship Circle at the Evangelical United Church of Christ in Cape Girardeau. The congregation, which annually produces homemade apple butter cooked over an open fire on the church grounds, knows a good apple recipe when it sees one. One taste and you'll understand why they are devoted to this one.

Ingredients:

1 cup margarine

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar, divided

1 cup brown sugar

2 large eggs

2 1/2 cups flour

1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon, divided

1 cup buttermilk

2 cups finely chopped apples

1/2 cup chopped nuts

Directions:

Cream margarine, 1 cup granulated sugar, and brown sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. Sift together flour, baking powder, soda, salt, and 2 teaspoons cinnamon and add to mixture alternately with milk in thirds, beating until smooth after each addition. Fold in apples and spread batter in greased 9x13 inch pan. Combine remaining 1/2 cup sugar and 1 and 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon with nuts, sprinkle over cake, and bake at 300 degrees for 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Got a recipe you'd like to share with our readers? Are you looking for a recipe for something in particular? Send your recipes and requests to The Harte Appetite, c/o Southeast Missourian, P.O. Box 699, Cape Girardeau, MO., 63702-0699 or by e-mail to tharte@semovm.semo.edu.

~Tom Harte is a professor at Southeast Missouri State University and writes a food column every other week for the Southeast Missourian.