Enjoying a trip to tasty Alsace

GETTING THERE: Paris is served by major airlines throughout the world. From one of the Paris airports, you can choose a short plane ride to Strasbourg or Mulhouse to start at either end of the wine route, some 280 miles from the capital. With the exception of well-trained cyclists, a car is a must for all travelers along the winding roads. Along the way, the special logo of the "route des vins d'Alsace" will show the way. With all the wine tasting along the road, it is advisable to have a designated driver during the trip.

WEATHER: Alsace, and especially the region around Colmar, is known for its dry microclimate, which is very beneficial for both the wines and the tourists. Any season will do. In December the region is known for its Christmas markets and there is nothing as fulfilling as a pork choucroute on a bitterly cold day in a village hugging the snowy Vosges mountains. Spring has all the fields in bloom and summer brings the heat in the high 70s and the tourists. In the fall, the rusty and yellow colors of the vineyards under a meek afternoon sun are awe inspiring.

LODGING: In such a hospitable region, try for the smaller hotels along the road. Most inns are impeccably clean and the staff is friendly. One of our favorites is the Hostellerie du Chateau right in the center of Eguisheim. It has wooden beams in the rooms and a morning view of the church and statue of pope Saint Leo IX are thrown in free. Doubles from $54 to $77. Phone 33-3-8923-7200.

Across the street is the more upscale Hostellerie des Chateaux. Phone 33-3-8895-8154.

In Colmar, few places can beat the Hostellerie le Marechal, in a half-timbered house on the canals of Petite Venise. Doubles from $81 to $112.

DINING: Tough to go wrong in a region which caters to lovers of food, wine and beer from morning till late at night. Since wine is such an important part of gastronomy, we mostly made sure to dine within walking distance of our hotel, sometimes no farther than a wiggly walk up the stairs.

In Colmar, Schillinger is over a century old and still has an excellent reputation.

Steep competition in this city keeps all chefs well on their toes.

Off the beaten track, pleasant surprises abound. In tiny Boersch, half an hour south of Strasbourg, Le Chatelain has built up its repute around its wine cellar and local specialties. The restaurant proves that little things make Alsace special. www.le-chatelain.com.

ON THE NET: www.vins-alsace.com for information about the wine, www.visit-alsace.com for general information, www.ottrott.com for the village of Ottrott.