FeaturesDecember 8, 1999

How often we hear the words, "My, how times have changed." Well, let me tell you a Christmas story of the long ago 1960s, and you will know just how much times have changed. I began the seventh grade in the fall of 1963, and I just couldn't wait until Christmas. ...

How often we hear the words, "My, how times have changed." Well, let me tell you a Christmas story of the long ago 1960s, and you will know just how much times have changed.

I began the seventh grade in the fall of 1963, and I just couldn't wait until Christmas. About Dec. 1, the chosen ones would get to leave school for the sole purpose of finding and cutting the perfect Christmas tree for the school auditorium stage. The upper-class girls were the anointed tree decorators. But everyone in junior high and high school got to put their name in the big red box. The red box was taken to each homeroom (remember those?) where every person drew out a name. No one was to tell whose name they had.

On the last day of school before Christmas break, the seventh through 12th grades gathered in the grand old auditorium. It had hardwood floors with a 30-foot ceiling and hand-scrolled wood trim around the stage where the regal Christmas tree stood surrounded by mountains of colorfully wrapped gifts.

At long last it was present time. I heard my name called. "Here I am," I shouted. A single green ribbon was all that stood between me and my gift. With a single jerk, there it was. Bill Spears, a ninth grader, had given me a fishing knife! Bill beamed as he asked me how I liked the knife, and he quickly suggested that he could teach me how to use it. I began to hum. Merry Christmas to me.

As we left the auditorium, the teachers gave the kids candy bags with Christmas fudge, an adaptation of a European specialty candy. This is without doubt the best fudge that I have ever eaten.

Oh! What a day that was. My favorite candy. And Bill Spears was going to teach me to fish.

Christmas Fudge

3/4 cup butter (no substitute)

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1/4 cup evaporated milk

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract

12 ounces semi-sweet chips

11 1/2 ounces milk chocolate chips

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10 ounces peanut butter chips

1 cup butterscotch chips

1 (7-ounce) jar marshmallow creme

1 cup pecan pieces, optional

1 cup walnut pieces, optional

1. Melt butter in a large heavy pot over low heat.

2. Add sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk and extracts, stir until blended.

3. Add all chips and stir until melted

4. Stir in marshmallow creme until well blended.

5. Remove from heat. Blend in pecan and walnut pieces.

6. Pour fudge into a well buttered 9x13-inch dish.

7. Cool and cut into squares.

Yield: about 5 pounds.

Visit Angie at her Web site, www.cookingwithangie.com. Angie Holtzhouser is author of "Drop Dumplin's and Pan-Fried Memories ... Along the Mississippi." Her cookbook can be purchased through the mail at: Drop Dumplin's, P.O. Box 10, Lilbourn, Mo. 63862. The price is $19.95 including tax and shipping.

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