Some people believe in luck while others describe moments when stars seem to align as serendipitous. The past couple of weeks I have been called to partake in what has been described as an oddity to some but an epicurean event to others: The Tinned Fish Summer.
A social media influencer I follow (and whose travels I live vicariously through) was scheduled to call Portugal and Spain home for the summer. He gushed on and on about his plans for a “tinned fish summer.” That’s right, he seemed unreasonably excited about eating fish from a can all summer long.
My first thought was, eeew.
Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy the occasional concoction created from canned fish, like a perfectly executed tuna melt or the simplicity of smoked oysters scooped straight from the tin using a salty crunchy Frito’s chip accompanied by a bottle of chilled Coca-Cola. My knowledge of the sheer volume of prepackaged options available was miniscule compared to the online influencer’s obsession with the popular Iberian delicacy also known as “conservas” which have been around since the mid 1800’s.
His joy was contagious and before I knew it, I was scouring the internet in search of more information. Turns out, the tinned fish train picked up steam here in the good old’ U.S.A. way back in 2020, when Tik Tok’ers looking for affordable shelf stable options began sharing reviews of their tinned fish of the month club hauls (yep, it’s a thing) and tinned fish date nights. Boy, I quickly realized I’d slept on the trend as I came across article after article about the craze in popular publications including Vogue, the New York Times, Food + Wine and even Fortune magazine.
As my curiosity intensified, I wondered how and where I might procure the upscale options worth wading into tin fish waters for. Everything online was either a bulk purchase or I was turned off by the shipping and handling. Just when I thought small town living had relegated me to a life of Bumble Bee and Chicken of the Sea, my fancy fish prayers were answered.
Goose & Gander, a gourmet grocery, opened its doors at 437 Broadway in downtown Cape Girardeau, and they had an entire section dedicated to the high quality conservas. I was in foodie heaven as I walked around the store taking in their carefully curated wares.
I was tempted by paella products while alcohol-free spirits and drinks flirted with my limited funds. The shelves were stocked with specialty items from Africa, India, Germany, Spain and Japan. Options included pasta, crackers, jarred sauces, spices, cookies, candies, and so many other rare finds I almost convinced myself the kitchen was my forte, though no one outside of my imagination would confuse me for a chef.
I took a deep breath, collected myself, and returned to the conservas section. With the help of Josh Green one day, Abby Schaaf another day, and tips texted via their chef dad, I was able to secure recommendations of a few beautiful brightly packaged tins.
My conservas creativity fell somewhere between Bobby Flay’s Throw Down and Frankenstein’s monster.
First, I enjoyed an octopus “ceviche”, quickly thrown together using store bought pico de gallo, chopped octopus, cilantro, and fresh squeezed lime served with blue corn chips which felt adventurous and tasted delcioso. Then, I made a sushi like roll using rice, sliced avocado, black sesame seeds, and bits of octopus wrapped in nori which I thought would be a great way to introduce newbies to the world of sushi. I turned half a can of chorizo spiced mussels into nachos complete with guacamole and pico de gallo, then served the rest atop blue corn chips with cream cheese and pickled red onion. I was shocked by how well the sweet, salty, creamy and savory flavors melded together. The Nuri brand spiced sardines in olive oil and spiced mackerel in olive oil were fabulous atop slices of toasty baguette alone and with other creative toppings.
One week I was enjoying a drive-thru cheeseburgers, the next I was a full-fledged tin fish connoisseur treating my body to more omega-3’s than I’ve consumed in the past three years and craving more.
Whether you are tinned fish curious like me or over the trend and looking to expand your culinary horizons, you are sure to find a few new favorites at Goose & Gander.
Mary Ann Castillo has over 50 years of eating experience with no plans to stop.
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