Kelso Kwik Stop: What in the baklava is going on?

“How are you?”

I overheard one person’s question followed by another person’s quick response.

“I’m still here.”

It was noon-ish on a Wednesday, and I was sitting alone at a nondescript table for four just a few feet from the cash register. Based on demographics I found for the village of Kelso online, I should have stuck out like a fajita on a veggie tray, but if anyone noticed they didn’t say a peep.

I watched as a woman walked in, made eye contact with Luma behind the counter, smiled and mentioned she’d ordered a couple of pizzas. “Linda” had been enjoying a sunny afternoon poolside with her grandchildren when their fun was cut short by a crop duster flying overhead. Unperturbed, they covered the swimming pool and switched to pizza party mode (at least until the pilot finished the job).

Moments later, a young man entered the store and Luma cheerfully shouted across the counter, “How’s the baby?” A slight grin of recognition was followed by his proud update — doing fine.

Kelso, population 586 which touts its annual Kelso Klassic Softball Tournament as its main claim to fame, hardly seemed like the place for a foodie find when it was recommended to me by a reader two years ago, so I put it on the back burner and followed their social media page.

Kelso Kwik Stop continued selling fuel and winning lottery tickets along with hot delicacies. Their fresh and affordable menu items included breakfast sandwiches, breakfast burritos, a variety of fresh salads and daily lunch specials that included Midwest favorites such as kettle beef, barbecue sandwiches, and … falafel?

Falafel? Homemade hummus? Tahini salad? Shawerma?

What in the baklava was going on?

Middle eastern food in the almost middle of nowhere Southeast Missouri? Well, I’ll be darned.

Kelso Kwik Stop had me intrigued and salivating, but their lunch specials were only offered Monday through Friday and I couldn’t seem to orchestrate a lunch date … until the good Lord (and the governor) gave me the perfect midweek reprieve — a government holiday. Hallelujah!

I later met owners, Luma and Sam Massarweh, who hail from the middle eastern country of Jordan, though Sam has called the United States home for decades at this point. They purchased the gas station/convenience store three years ago, but after my visit I discovered they’ve turned it into so much more.

As I chomped away at a wrap filled with beef, chicken, shredded lettuce and diced tomatoes drizzled with a delicious homemade sauce Luma insisted on keeping secret, we chatted away finding common ground on a variety of topics like old friends. We discussed college, travel, food, culture, work ethic, martial arts, hostels, jumping out of airplanes and even some politically incorrect topics I can’t tell you about because, well, sometimes I can’t read my own notes. It’s probably better that way.

Then, we discussed community.

What could be more interesting than finding middle eastern food in a little village in Missouri?

The people of the roundtable.

I arrived much too late to meet any of them, but if you scroll through the Kelso Kwik Stop social media page, you will come across the occasional birthday celebration. Have you ever seen a big to-do about a birthday take place at a gas station? In three short years, Kelso Kwik Stop has become the hub for a group of locals. In fact, the people of the roundtable are such a staple they each have a mug with their name on one side and the store logo on the other waiting for them on the back counter when they arrive each morning. I don’t know who adopted who, and Luma joked that she believes they come in for her verbal “abuse", but it’s clear there is plenty of affection to go both ways.

Before leaving, I took Linda’s advice and sampled the homemade baklava, a popular middle eastern pastry made with layers of phyllo dough filled with chopped nuts and soaked in syrup. With each scrumptious bite, I wondered if maybe I’d discovered the real secret to Kelso Kwik Stops success.

When I’m in a rush during the week, I’ll stop by McDonald’s on the way to work where Toby is always ready with a smile. When I have more time, I think I’ll take a "kwik" trip out to Kelso … for a falafel and another opportunity to say “Gig 'em, Sam.”

Kelso Kwik Stop is located at 138 N. Hwy. 61 in Kelso.

Mary Ann Castillo has more than 50 years of eating experience with no plans to stop.