Ask a foodie: Donburi: Digging into a Bowl of Hope

Hearing the news of Café N’ Me’s recent closure was bittersweet. Though I’ll miss one of my favorite comfort foods, Panang curry, I remain forever grateful for memories made around their tiny little tables. Lunching and laughter with the ladies. Culinary adventures with my kids. The joy of initiating newbies to their first taste of Thai food as others have done for me. The occasional awkward “is this a date?” conversation after what I thought was a simple meal with a friend turned into awkward confusion, along with that one time I was lovingly coaxed into a church commitment over a steaming bowl of chicken pad Thai.

Luckily, before I could even begin to get stuck in nostalgia, I was reading the news: Donburi was coming to Cape Girardeau.

“Donburi” literally translates to “bowl” and refers to a popular rice-bowl dish in Japan. Though different regions of Japan have their specialties, a wide range of donburi is easily found throughout the country, from simple and inexpensive to more creative and extravagant options. Maybe donburi is Japan’s equivalent of America’s burger and fries?

I Googled Donburi to find their menu.

It was straightforward and manageable: eight appetizers, eight rice bowl options and a few other fresh offerings along with dessert and drinks. An item I’d never heard of piqued my interest. A little online research and bam I’d narrowed down my objective.

A few hours later, I found myself cheerfully sitting at one of the familiar tables in Donburi restaurant (which fills the space formerly occupied by Café N’ Me at 820 N. Sprigg St.) talking to Pauline about her husband chef Kenji Nonaka’s path to Donburi while their 11-year-old son sat occupied at a table in the corner.

Chef Kenji began his traditional sushi chef training when he was only a few years older than his son. He shared his sushi expertise with the Creve Coeur community for well over a decade before finally handing over the reins. Just as he found himself missing the art of sushi, he learned of an available venue in Cape Girardeau. The family jumped on the opportunity and Donburi opened a couple of weeks ago.

The menu item that caught my eye? Takoyaki. Takoyaki is a popular Japanese street food comprised of a wheat batter and minced or diced octopus fried into bite sized balls and topped with various ingredients and sauces. It seemed safely adventurous.

I ordered the Gyu don bowl, an order of Takoyaki, and Pauline surprised me with a sample of the squid salad.

The Gyu don bowl is a deliciously safe option for the picky eaters in your crew. It was comprised of seasoned tender slices of beef and sauteed onions served atop a bed of rice in a subtly sweet sauce.

I found myself pleasantly surprised by the squid salad and immediately regretted all the times I’d passed it up on menus. If you enjoy seafood, I highly recommend adding it to your order.

Last, the dish that brought me through the door, Takoyaki. The order arrived at the table hot, golden and crispy on the outside. This is when the fun began. I noted the creamy and savory toppings along with … wait … is that … moving???

Oh-em-gee, it was moving.

Did I order something alive?

I wanted an adventure but … had I gone too far?

Hiding my terror, I called out to Pauline. When she arrived, I sheepishly pointed to my plate.

She smiled, “bonito flakes”. She must have picked up on my unshaken trepidation because she quickly added, “not alive, it’s just the air.” Whew. Crisis averted. Apparently, bonito flakes are made of dried bonito fish that has been so finely grated the pieces easily move with the slightest air and temperature change, giving the appearance of dancing around on your plate. A quick search of TikTok gave me the confirmation I needed to push through, and I am so glad I did because the fabulous flavor explosion in my mouth was well worth the momentary emotional trauma. Takoyaki had a bit of everything: crisp texture, creamy toppings, chewy bits of octopus and a hint of ginger. What’s not to love?

What began as a 13-year-old boys’ goal of becoming an expert sushi chef is now a husband and father still chasing his dreams as his son begins his own foray into the world full of hope while chasing down soccer balls and proving it’s never too late to do a new thing, or do an old thing better.

Mary Ann Castillo has over 50 years of eating experience with no plans to stop.