ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI: FROM BREAKFAST TO SODA FOUNTAIN SUNDAE, OLD TIME CHOCOLATE GRAVY A PRIZE

The essence of chocolate gravy, the original breakfast treat, and many of the old-time recipes is that they were born from the ingredients that folks had on hand.

The air filled with a fragrant affection as my Granny Thompson served her Saturday morning breakfast specialty -- hot buttered biscuits, topped with a ladle of warm chocolate gravy. They should create a Recipe Hall of Fame, and the first inductee should be Chocolate Gravy.

In 1958 when entering the Reeves Drug & Soda Fountain, you were met with the mingled smells of wood oil from the long polished counter and the chocolate sauce, cherries, nuts and ice cream that enabled Mr. Ben to create his luscious sundaes. Smooth rich ice cream floated in the sweet chocolate sauce, while nuts and a cherry stood guard of this priceless treasure. Friday afternoons were made for chocolate sundaes.

The following recipe was inspired by Granny Thompson's winning chocolate gravy and Mr. Ben's indulgent chocolate sauce.

Old-time chocolate gravy or sauce

8 ounces unsweetened baking chocolate

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter

1 1/3 cups water

3 1/2 cups granulated sugar, sifted (see note)

1/2 cup white corn syrup

1/4 cup dark corn syrup

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1. Melt chocolate and butter together over low heat in heavy saucepan.

2. Heat water to a full boil in a separate heavy saucepan. Stir chocolate-butter mixture into boiling water (the chocolate will separate from water).

3. Immediately add sugar and corn syrup. Whisk mixture until smooth.

4. Cook at very low simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat; let cool to room temperature. Stir in vanilla.

5. Serve hot with buttered biscuits for breakfast, or on your favorite ice cream. It is also a great topping for cake or brownies. Refrigerate any leftovers.

Yield: about 5 cups

Note: sift sugar because lumps are a no-no in this preparation.

Angie Holtzhouser is author of Drop Dumplin's and Pan-Fried Memories ... Along the Mississippi. Her cookbook is available at local bookstores. In addition, it can be purchased through the mail at: Drop Dumplin's, P.O. Box 10, Lilbourn, Mo. 63862. The price is $19.95, including tax and shipping.