The making of homemade ice cream is a summertime betokened family festivity. The rich churned custard is so pleasing, that it's a wonder that it is not a sin!

My Mother always prepared the golden vanilla custard the day before the ice cream makin' was to take place. By doing this you increase the yield and produce a smoother textured ice cream.

When ice cream freezers were still hand-cranked, each of us willing took our turn crankin', so when that critical moment -- the lickin' of the dasher came, you had dibs. The electric freezer has done away with some of the shared excitement of ice cream makin', but none of its taste or its feel goodness.

This frozen delight can easily stand alone, or wear a crown of fresh fruits and nuts in style.

Vanilla Custard Ice Cream

1/2 gallon whole milk

1 1/2 cups sugar

6 whole eggs

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 can sweetened condensed milk

1. Combine milk, sugar and eggs in a large heavy pot. Mix well.

2. Cook over low heat until bubbles appear around the edges, stirring constantly. Do not boil. Mixture will have thickness of custard.

3. Cool about thirty minutes. Cover well and refrigerate at least six hours or overnight.

4. Add vanilla and condensed milk just before putting mixture in a freezer.

5. Prepare according to freezer directions.

Yield: about 12 one-cup servings

Angie Holtzhouser is author of Drop Dumplin's and Pan-Fried Memories ... Along the Mississippi. Her cookbook is available at local bookstores. In addition, it can be purchased through the mail at: Drop Dumplin's, P.O. Box 10, Lilbourn, Mo. 63862. The price is $19.95, including tax and shipping.