ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI: NANNY MOORE'S SPOON BREAD SERVED WITH GOOD HUMOR

Nanny Moore always set a fine table, and all her delicious treasures were seasoned with good humor. My mouth starts to water when I think of the tantalizing smell of her down-home spoon bread baking. She served this favorite with country ham and red-eye gravy. Talk about having to loosen your belt a notch or two.

Spoon bread

2 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons oil or bacon drippings

1 cup self-rising corn meal

2 eggs, separated

1 cup milkpreheat oven to 350 degrees.

1. Bring water to a boil in 2-quart saucepan; add salt and oil.

2. Slowly add cornmeal, stirring quickly to prevent lumping.

3. Reduce heat, cook about 1 minute, until thick. Remove from heat, cool 10 minutes.

4. Beat 1 egg yolk at a time into mixture. Reserve egg whites.

5. Add milk and mix well.

6. Beat egg whites until stiff; fold lightly but thoroughly into cornmeal mixture.

7. Turn into greased 2-quart casserole. Bake 30 minutes or until center is set. Serve immediately from baking dish with a spoon. Top with Red-eye Gravy or butter.

Yield: 6 large servings.

Red-eye Gravy and Country Ham

1. In a large skillet add 1/2 cup oil.

2. Over medium heat, cook until lightly browned, slices of country ham, turn often. Remove ham to platter.,3. Mix 1 teaspoon of instant coffee with two cups warm water and add to pan drippings.

4. Over medium heat, with spoon, stir drippings to loosen from bottom of pan; heat to boiling.

5. Serve with Spoon Bread.

Angie Holtzhouser is author of Drop Dumplin's and Pan-Fried Memories ... Along the Mississippi. Her cookbook is available at local bookstores. In addition, it can be purchased through the mail at: Drop Dumplin's, P.O. Box 10, Lilbourn, Mo. 63862. The price is $19.95, including tax and shipping.