Ask a foodie: Smoore’s puts the art in Artisan Confections

There are few things in this world more whimsical than a candy store, a place that exists solely to create what may be just one magical bite, usually of sweetness, one perfect mouthful that was crafted with skill, love and perseverance. Whimsy abounds at Smoore’s Artisan Confections, found at 709 Broadway in Cape Girardeau.

Upon first setting foot in Smoore’s, I couldn’t help but notice the abundance of color, which is what I expect from a candy store but still can’t help but marvel at it. Small bits and dabs of rainbow hues, and each had a flavor to discover. But, if you know my preferences, I like to discover flavors that may seem odd, a bit off the beaten path, something I’ve never tried before, and boy, did I find it this time.

The woman inside immediately asked me if I’d like to try a free sample of the brittle, and of course I did. The young boy beside her told me that the garlic bread was his favorite, and I did a double take, thinking I’d misheard him. There, nestled among the more “normal” sweet brittle flavors to try, was a bag labeled Garlic Bread Brittle. The lady saw the look on my face, and told me that one must enjoy garlic to appreciate that one. Well, sign me up. I tried a piece.

Conflict. Chaos. Flavors that shouldn’t work together and yet, somehow did, battled for supremacy. A deep, buttery, uncompromising garlic flavor, tinged with more than a dollop of rich and herby thyme, the crunch of pumpkin seeds for a texture difference, and all of it rooted in the snap of buttery, sugary brittle. This candy was savory, like garlic bread. It was also sweet, like brittle hard candy. Neither flavor managed to overpower the other. Neither flavor came to the forefront, where I could say, “Yes, this is more savory and less sweet,” or, “No, this is definitely sweet candy.” It was one of the most unique things I have ever tasted, and I am still torn on my thoughts about it. It was like oil and water had mixed effortlessly. It was dark and light existing together, both expressing themselves completely. It didn’t make sense, but my taste buds were telling another story. Of course I bought my own bag to take home.

Trying to be more normal and being a lover of cinnamon rolls, I also bought a bag of Cinnamon Streusel Brittle with Pecans. Amazing. This crunchy brittle hit all of the notes of a cinnamon roll, including the flavors of a pat of butter and wonderful cream cheese frosting. How this deceptively simple flat candy can evoke all of these flavors in one bite is beyond me. This brittle is unapologetically sweet, while still letting the rich nuttiness of pecan shine. At home, we fought over who got to eat more of this one, each of us carefully making sure the piece sizes were equal. It wasn’t really that dramatic, but it was delicious.

Back on the slightly weird candy spectrum was freeze-dried Little Debbie Christmas Tree cakes. Freeze drying works by freezing an item, then lowering the pressure around it until you have achieved a vacuum. Once in a vacuum, whatever moisture is inside of the item changes directly from ice into vapor, completely skipping the liquid phase. This results in a shelf-stable food, devoid of moisture, usually crispy, and a light and airy texture, as the food expands with the release of the vapor. However, unlike the other candies, the Christmas Trees still looked like regular-sized treats, just like normal ones straight from the box. I was intrigued.

When I took a bite, I was really paying attention, trying to decide what I was tasting. The outside coating of the tree seemed to be unchanged, still waxy and sweet, melting slightly as I chewed. But the inside of the tree had changed drastically. The soft cake had turned cracker-crunchy, light and airy. The line of frosting inside remained soft, so the flavor was still all Little Debbie, but the texture was a gentle flaky crunch.

Seth’s choice was a more respectable Thin Mint Marshmallow Bar, a delectable made-from-scratch marshmallow flavored with mint, drizzled with dark chocolate, and seated on a crushed chocolate cookie base. Absolutely perfect, and not at all odd.

I can’t wait to try more.

Rebecca LaClair travels to a new place every week to try food from a trendy restaurant or one she hasn’t been to yet.